Bonus: used it to rickroll my teenage daughter.
Title basically says it all. I've never had cordless tools before and have been told a lighter weight cordless will change my life.
Is this true?
Will primarily be used for hanging plaster board and other standard sssssstuff.
Any recommendations or good sales spotted?
Cheers
Hi, I will be affixing green plasterboard to timber framing in my bathroom but not sure which screws would be best for bathroom applications?
Thanks.
Hi all I'm overboarding my ceiling and bought 12.5mm plasterboard - however it occurred to me this would be a good time to add some insulation into the mix too.
Obviously too late to buy insulated board now - would this be a good option to add? https://www.screwfix.com/p/ybs-airtec-reflective-double-insulation-25-x-1-2m/6520p
I'm looking to insulate an internal floor with rockwool but will be installing it from th floor above (already decorated room below).
There's pipes and cables to navigate in between the joists but I expect to take the floor up, lay the wool down and then refloor.
Should I be fitting something to hold the wool in place (if so, what) or should it be OK to rest on top of the plasterboard for the ceiling below?
Thanks
Garage used once a week for a few beers on a fri night so thought I'd neaten it up and make it warmer for winter months. I have painted a layer of sealer on the plasterboard and painted it . Now I'm worried about mould .
University of Canterbury (UC) Bachelor of Product Design student Andy (Minhong) Park has developed a biocomposite wall panel that uses algae...
https://preview.redd.it/vx3cwpuni4d81.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7bb46b21115a3d317c20ae4e0b1f6073ff553b1
Hey folks.
Just bought a new house and looking to do-up the office room.
House was built in late 80s (around 87-89). Walls are (I'm pretty sure) cavity walls, clad internally with plasterboard.
The previous owner put shelves up on pretty much all the walls:
https://preview.redd.it/jtoxg2ez4y981.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d4eef91d6274eb336bd9bba405aa9226ae875f75
I'm a software dev by trade, and a complete noob when it comes to anything practical. In my naivety, when viewing the house, I assumed (as the house is brick on the outside) these shelves would be secured via simple wall plugs straight into the masonry.
I thought it would be take them down, remove the wall plugs, bit of polyfilla, lick of paint. Job done... nope!
Turns out it's a cavity wall with plasterboard, and the shelves are actually secured with these little b*stards:
Feck these flippin' things, man seriously!
I watched some YouTube videos that suggested screwing the screw in a bit, then gently tapping the head to straighten out the inside of the anchor.
Here's the result of my attempt (hammer for scale):
As Roy Walker would say, \"It's good, but it's not right\"
As you can see from the first pic, once I take all the shelves down, I'm gonna be left with loads of these friggers and their holes all over my bl**dy walls.
Some Google-foo suggests, as the holes are all gonna be more than 1cm, I'll need to use some kind of "bridging material" if I'm gonna polly-fill them (like this?). Is that right? Tape, fill, sand and repaint?
Any / all advice on how you guys would tackle this is greatly appreciated!
Thanks <3
Any experts in?
House is standard, mid 90's development type. Insulated cavity with brick outer, block inner.
Thermally its ok. Boiler is ~5 years old. The house gets warm fairly quickly and stays warmish. However I'm considering trying to improve things with insulated plasterboard on the external walls.
The whole house needs redoing anyway. Prior to moving in, it had been 'freshened up' one too many time for my liking. The walls are a bit ropey throughout. Poorly painted etc.
There's a tiny human on its way into my life and his room will be at the back of the house. The rear of the house is south facing and it gets pretty hot in the summer.
Is insulated plasterboard worth the extra cash? I'd be looking to take off the internal render and stick the plasterboard directly to the blockwork and have it skimmed afterwards.
The aim being to keep the temperature a bit more stable. Warmer in winter, cooler in summer. Starting with that room and gradually doing all of the external walls in the same way. At £50 quid a sheet though, am I wasting time and money?
Also, if its being fitted to the internal block wall on the warm side of an insulated cavity, would I need a vapour barrier? Either integrated into the board or as a seperate layer?
The floor upstairs all needs replacing too as it's creaky old chipboard nailed into the joists so I'll be pulling it up and screwing ply down instead, I plan to add rockwool to cavity below for a bit of extra warmth.
Hi, after destroying my plasterboard wall under the bedroom window of my 1930s house i am now thinking about whether or not it could have been asbestos or not (yes thinking about this before would have been ideal). Is this likely? Not sure if they used asbestos in plasterboard. I wore a JSP press-to-check halfmask but not sure if this would have even helped with protection. Thanks.
Hi all,
How to tell whether a wall is plasterboard or a drywall in a home/apartment?
TLDR - how do you angle J tracks on the slope walls of a sloped ceiling?
I have a garage with a sloped ceiling. The joists are packed with insulation and I’m ready to cover it with plasterboard. It’s a room that will be used a few times a week for projects, therefore I think metal framing is more appropriate (than wood framing or mounting the plasterboard directly to the joists).
I have never installed metal studs before so I’ve been levelling up with online resources. Although I’ve found many useful tips for ceiling framing, I haven’t found the solution to mounting j tracks when there is a sloped ceiling
With J tracks, the longer end must be mounting on the bottom. I could always drill a hole through that and screw through the hole directly in to the joists (normally they are screwed in to the walls), but will that not affect the capacity of the final structure?
The only alternative I can think of is to cut a beam of wood at the appropriate angle, screw that in to the wall and screw the J track through it in to the wall.
Thanks for any responses in advance.
We are gutting a room before renovating it, including removing the crumbling render bonding and plaster on the walls and pulling down the old plasterboard ceiling because it is cracked and sagging. We're doing the "demolition" work ourselves before hiring a professional to apply new surface on the walls and plaster the ceiling.
I'm planning to put up the new plasterboard ceiling myself before getting someone to plaster over it. This is mostly to make sure we spend as little time as possible with no ceiling in the room and therefore no insulation over winter (this project is already in motion but there are long waits for most trades in my area). I'm relatively handy and have taken on various other projects, so I'm feeling fairly confident about the prospect of cutting, lifting (with help) and fixing plasterboard to the joists. What I'm seeking here is advice about some specific details, and any other general tips.
-
With the old
renderbonding removed and the bare brick exposed, should the new plaster board go up to the brick or leave a small gap? If a gap, how much? The brick isn't perfectly flat so there will be some tiny gaps, but should I deliberately leave more? I'm conscious of making life easy for the professional who redoes the walls and plasters the ceiling. We won't have coving so we're looking for a straight 90deg edge. -
Thickness - I've read conflicting advice on 9.5mm vs 12.5mm boards for ceilings. Is there a de facto answer? Is it a toss up with pros and cons?
-
What should be done with edges that don't line up with joists? Again, I've seen conflicting advice here - some people say to cut boards to meet joists, some say to just butt the boards together and cover it with plasterboard tape and jointing compound, some say to insert noggins.
-
Any other advice? Any tips very much welcomed!
Edit, 5) What's the breaking point on boarding over the existing ceiling vs pulling it down at putting up new boards? The current one is sagging slightly and has some cracking but isn't exactly falling off the joists.
We had a couple of walls plasterboarded before skimming in our kitchen and unfortunately some of the dab adhesive has failed, so the board rattles and flaps about on the wall. Obviously taking it down and doing it again isn't an option because the room is largely finished now. Anyone got any tips to hold the board tight to the wall again?
Hi! I've moved into a house where basically all of the walls are plasterboard/wood fibre board. I don't have much experience with fixing stuff to these kinds of wall, and there seem to be a ton of fixings available. Can anyone please advise on what's best for the below (I guess what's most suitable might vary by weight of 'thing'):
-A coatrack (3-4 kg, but will have coats added)
-A bathroom cabinet (7kg, with bathroom stuff to be added)
-A mirror (probably about 20kg, it's a big one)
Really don't want to tear up my walls! But I do want to mount stuff.
I'm in the UK and want to install WiFi in our garage so I'll wire up a second router by connecting to the router in our living room. The living room and garage share a wall. I'll use a hammer drill through the breeze block but what about the plasterboard and should I go from the living room to the garage or vice versa? How about pulling or pushing the Ethernet cable through since there's probably a gap between the plasterboard and breeze block ?
Any hints greatly appreciated.
Hey there, so I've got a problem with my plasterboard ceiling. I've tried to mount a lamp with four plasterboard dowels and basically completely scarred my ceiling with holes. Some of the dowels are really tight, but most of them just ripped holes in the ceiling and came back down even tho I was careful. My question is: how do I fix the holes in a way that the dowels can hold tight in the old holes? I have no option of drilling new holes since there is no free space anymore. Thanks already for your help.
University of Canterbury (UC) Bachelor of Product Design student Andy (Minhong) Park has developed a biocomposite wall panel that uses algae...
https://preview.redd.it/z3krwx0ti4d81.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e70f9617e1ae18f02d791d6a63eb87af0a1fb9ed
University of Canterbury (UC) Bachelor of Product Design student Andy (Minhong) Park has developed a biocomposite wall panel that uses algae...
https://preview.redd.it/byyr82fyi4d81.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ac0fda95da9a4465b4457d0592201bfe38affb7
